REPORTING – The followers of Vodoun, who are growing in number every year, meet in Ouidah on January 10th during a festival dedicated to the revival of this traditional religion born in Benin.
Stop talking to them about voodoo dolls or they will really enchant you. “It’s a Hollywood invention, it doesn’t exist!” we hear ourselves repeating over and over again, even if we don’t even ask the question. Also, the word “voodoo” is not used here: in the Fon language, this traditional cult of the peoples of the former kingdom of Abomey is called “Vodoun” – but the Frenchization of the word to “voodoo” remains in use in western India. And far from the black legend that horror cinema has made of it, its followers defend themselves against all witchcraft: vodoun is not an occult practice, but a religion.
On the eve of January 10, the country prepares to celebrate Vodoun on a day of splendor and a holiday. The church will settle for a few hours in the middle of the village: this domestic cult, usually withdrawn in the cryptic intimacy of monasteries and temples, will be left tomorrow to the carnivalesque exhibition, while kings and priests parade in their ceremonial costumes in endless processions will music and dances replace discreet consultations and private sacrifices for a time.
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We enter the kingdom of Allada, where the somba flutes, the tchangot tche and the djembes are already setting their frenetic rhythm. The Vodoun festival begins here on the eve of the big day, the time of a preparatory liturgy aimed at invoking the favor of the deities to ensure the celebrations run smoothly. For if it isn’t this anachronistic resurgence of African tribal witchcraft that we sometimes imagine, the cult of voodoo is not inherently benevolent: whoever knows how to invoke the deities also knows that they can just as well be used to to do good evil according to the intention of him who commands them. The prayers of the kingdom of Allada are blessings: Provided that tomorrow no one seeks vengeance or war from the Vodoun.
In the kingdom of Allada, music and dance drive away evil spirits. Pascaline Assogba
Arriving at the gates of the royal palace, the smoke of the offerings is already mingling with…
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